How to care for grapes in the summer to achieve a plentiful harvest
Despite the alleged frailty and senile dryness, the life expectancy of the grape bush is comparable to human and even in some cases can exceed 150 years. If you add to this a short period for entering fruiting - about two to three years when planting with seedlings - and a terrific taste, then the enthusiasm of gardeners collecting whole collections in their personal plots is no longer surprising. Moreover, due to the efforts of breeders, the assortment of zoned varieties for zones with risky viticulture in open ground is constantly expanding.
Summer is the most crucial period for laying the future harvest, and therefore we will talk about how to achieve success and enjoy your own efforts in the autumn perspective. The heart of a winegrower beats a carcass when a grateful vine in return for his labor more than rewards juicy, sparkling in the sun, bulk berries ...
It is not too late to plant the first seedling in your young vineyard and go from fantasy to a dream come true! Nurseries, gardeners and shops are ready to offer you planting material in containers, which does not lose its relevance until the end of June. If the green baby before the meeting with you was not exposed to ultraviolet radiation, but was obtained directly from the greenhouse, then your primary task is to take care of its hardening in a place where there are no direct sunlight. For example, under the crowns of trees. This operation is necessary so that the delicate leaves do not suffer from sunburn. A week in a shady shelter and a week in an open area - this time is enough for a sissy of grapes.
While the plant revels in dosed portions of solar heat, you can prepare a planting hole for it. Before planting, the soil must have time to settle. During planting, you can use a well-rotted humus or compost, sprinkling it under the roots of a seedling with a layer of 10-15 cm in the form of a knoll. The width of the pit is 35-40 cm. The neck of the plant should be below ground level - unlike fruit trees. Do not destroy the "native" earthen lump so that the plant takes root more quickly. Fill the landing hole to half with soil, compact, water well and, after all the above manipulations, fill it to the top. Thus, you will avoid the formation of soil crust and rapid evaporation of moisture. It remains to establish a peg and tie a green baby. The first year works to strengthen the seedling and the formation of a powerful root system, so all side shoots must be removed.
Finally, you are the happy owner of a grape bush that is over two years old. It is time to think about the future harvest. In order not to overload the bush, it is important to timely remove the "extra" brushes before the onset of the flowering phase. We leave one developing bunch at the rate of one fruiting branch. This "radical surgery" will allow the plant to distribute nutrients more rationally. As a result, the berries, and the brushes themselves, will be significantly larger.
Pay attention to weak shoots, which should be removed without any pity, and to fruitless shoots, which are partially removed to preserve leafiness to improve photosynthesis. After all, leaves are a whole factory for converting solar energy into energy, which supplies nutrition to the grape bush. In cropping, some skill and intuition are important, they come with experience. The main thing is to remember three main goals: increasing the yield, eliminating thickening and caring for fruiting in subsequent years. Be careful not to overdo it!
Devote a separate chapter of their works to the righteous stepsons. The grazing of grapes is similar to the grazing of tomatoes with the only difference being that removal “on a stump” is done only when it is important for you to increase the growth power of the main shoot. If your task is to stop the growth in height, but to focus on the thickness of the stem and increase the flow of nutrients to future clusters, then the stepson is removed partially and exclusively in a grassy (non-lignified) state - with the leaves of two or three lower leaves. The more light and balanced the ration will be on your vine, the sweeter and richer the taste will be on the berries. And diseases like mildew and oidium adore thickening and shading.
The vine, like any cultivated fruit-bearing plant, is sensitive to feeding, whether it is traditional root or less popular leafy. Root dressing works on the formation of future crops, they are more long-term and do not immediately give a visual result. But foliar application - the fastest and most effective agricultural method to supply the starving vine with the necessary nutrients for full growth and development. Both methods are equally significant for gardeners seeking the maximum return on the grape bush.
Monoforms of micronutrients more effectively affect the lack of nutrients, but for this it is necessary to clearly navigate the alarms that the plant gives the gardener. So, copper and iron are responsible for the correct formation and size of inflorescences. Interruptions with boron cause the ovary to fall. Without manganese, growth is inhibited. The lack of sufficient cobalt interferes with normal nitrogen metabolism. Lack of zinc negatively affects root formation. The holeiness of the leaves and their yellowing may be due to a deficiency of molybdenum, especially in the case of acidic soils.
Oddly enough, an arid and hot summer is not a guarantee of the accumulation of sugar in grape berries, since untimely irrigation and irregular feeding prevent the absorption of micro and macro elements. Avoiding undesirable surprises is quite simple, you just have to adopt a new generation of fertilizers like “Biohumus” for fruits and berries ”from the company“ Life Force ”, where the nutrient content is selected comprehensively, in accordance with the urgent needs of the vine. The chelated form of trace elements ensures the assimilation of any of the active ingredients by 90%! In this case, neither the health of the summer resident, nor the environment suffers due to the organic matrix of the drug.
As a result, you will receive:
- reduction of fruiting time;
- improving the taste of berries;
- yield increase;
- strengthening the immunity of the vine to a number of common fungal diseases.
One drug is suitable for both root and leaf dressings, which is extremely convenient for those gardeners who have an acute shortage of time. Optimal hours of spraying are evening: the solution does not have time to dry and is well absorbed into the sheet tissue. Make sure that the drug does not drain, but only densely covers the leaves. The frequency from the beginning of the growing season is once every 10 days for leaf and every two weeks for root top dressing.
The sweetness of berries depends on light and nutrition: the more sun and regular “snacks” in grapes, the richer the fruit
Grapes are not as complex a culture as they might seem. It is so nice on a fine autumn day, when Indian women hopefully winks with a sly sunny eye, rip off a bunch of grapes and, plucking a berry, crush a sweet, slightly tart fountain in your mouth! Believe me, all the monotonous labors and daily efforts, all sleepless nights and early rises are worth this wonderful event!